waterfalls/rapids

[Jackie]

Anyone have any suggestions on how to deal with the contrast of waterfalls or river rapids. We just retuned from the Smokey Mountains and I had such a problem with the contrast of the water and the dark green of the forests. I tried a polarizer and I tried the split ND filter but being that the scene was really not split with a bright half and dark half the ND didn't help. I do not own a solid ND filter - would that work.
Thanks,
Jackie

[GaryK]

Hi Jackie

I have a feeling from your description that the dynamic range (darkest to lightest) is out of range for the camera (likely for most cameras).
A solid ND filter would not have made a difference.. the polarizer was likely your best bet.
Shooting in RAW may have given the best shot at recovery.

What some will do is bracket the shot and then combine them in photoshop/elements using masks and what have you.
Or what is becoming very popular is trying a HDR mege in full photoshop or in software designed just for such a thing from Photomatix.

[H2O Junkie]

My experience in shooting the falls and rapids in the Smokey Mountains has been time of day. If you shoot in peak daylight it is EXTREMELY difficult to get them right. You can't change the position of the falls relative to the sun. I try to shoot them either in early morning or late afternoon. The waxing and waning light is the perfect time to offset the contrast.

This photo of Amicalola Falls in northern GA was shot in the late afternoon as the sun was falling on the horizon with a polarizer to reduce glare on the water from the sun. If you can plan your trips the next time out based on the falls or rapids position relative to the sun you will find a dramatic improvement in your photos. It's too bad you didn't post the photo in question for us to see.

[ljameso1]

Other than shooting HDR(multiple exposures to combine). The best trick is to go when there is high thin overcast to give even lighting(also good light for flower/woods photos). 2nd best trick is find a day with frequent clouds and photograph when a cloud is diffusing the sunlight.

[Edmund]

All the prior info given is right on. I have also found that a good time for the Smokies is overcast, dreary damp days. I always use a tripod, try to expose for the highlights (not blown away), manual mode, camera spot meter, shutter preferred mode, polarizer, and depending on water speed a speed of say 1/15 or 1/30 sec or lower. That will give the water that milky look. Dreary damp days are sometimes the best time for flowers and deep green moss.
Eddie

[Jackie]

Thanks everyone. I did use the polarizer, metered using center (should have done spot) and generally used aperature priority at f22 which did give me a shutter speed for the water to have that milky look. Using the levels adjustment layer I can lighten up the darkness of the forest quite a bit but if I had it to do again I would do as Gary suggested and shoot one for the water and a second for the dark forest. Is there a tutorial for combining images like that in Elements - I have PSE6. I didn't shoot during the peak of the day but even then it was still pretty bright. It was definitely a learning experience. I'm hoping to get another good water opportunity in the U.P. of Michigan this fall.
Thanks again ALL of you - I learn so much from this site!
Jackie

[ljameso1]

To combine images in elements, copy the one that will need the least amount removed and paste over the other. If you have a mask plug-in add a layer mask and paint black over the area wan to show from the layer below. If don't have plug-in, just add any adjustment layer and click ok without making changes, drag the layer between the 2 pic layers and hold option/alt key while hovering mouse over the dividing line of the adjustment layer and the one above until see the double moon symbol and click on it. You can now use that layer mask. There is a pretty cost effective program called photo-matix that will blend the different exposures for you.

[lexcell]

Some excellent suggestions here. When the light is too contrasty using a tripod and locking it down to take several images at varying exposures (use the highlight warning or histogram to make sure you have detail in the brightest area through the darkest area) then combining them in Photomatix to expand the tonal range of your image. I take anywhere from 5-7 frames using bracketing with one stop increments.

A polarizer will cut the reflection but will not have enough effect on the tonal range to help you.

My favorite time to photograph water is on overcast days. The sky acts like a giant softbox allowing me to capture all the detail I need from brightest whites to the shadow area in one frame. Plus, the lower light allow me to shoot at a slower shutter speed to capture the cotton candy water look.

[DebCam]

I live at the foothills of the smokies so I shoot the river quite often. Like others have said time of day and lighting is key. If the sun is out bright, you just can't get a decent shot. It doesn't matter how many filters or what kind of camera you have. I usually use a polarizer only, if at all. Just depends. I took the shot below last wed. at 7:30 a.m. tripod mounted, No polarizer. f/22 for 1 sec.

[lexcell]

Hi Deb,
You nailed it on the head with your comments and with your beautiful image. It was either an overcast day or the sun had not reached the scene yet. Very nicely done!!!