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View Full Version : Levels color correction for colorblind people…like me.


Daviskw
March 5th, 2006, 10:48 PM
I have a terrible time color correcting and decided to figure a way to at least be consistent from photo to photo in my workflow. The procedures I use below will not instantly and uniformly color correct every photo but it will provide a neutral base that color can be added or subtracted without introducing more color shifts.

This procedure is long and can be a little complicated but I believe it needs to be this way for consistency. It can be done the same way every time with consistent results…which is the goal!! I use it where I am having problems using standard procedures.

Correction is an art that by its very nature cannot be consistent. For instance, if you take a picture in the early morning and at 12 noon of the exact same subject each will be very different in color but both will have correct and appropriate tones.

My goal was to take any picture and balance the white, black, and neutral or gray points. Then be able, if necessary, to apply color in a consistent manner to complete correction.

Here is my workflow then I will supply details;

1.) LOOK at picture!!!!!…NO really LOOK at picture; see if you can identify the color problems before you start.

2.) Open the info box from the windows menu we will use it to track changes in the photo as we color correct.

3.) Identify representative areas in your photo that should be white, black and a neutral color such as gray. Mark those areas on separate layers so they can be returned to accurately.

4.) Using a levels adjustment layer, alter and track the white, black, gray markers until they read as neutral.

5.) Final color correcting by adding or subtracting.

6.) Brightness and contrast final adjustments.

Ways to find black and white points;

The White point on the Levels histogram we want, does not necessarily represent the whitest point on the picture. We want it to represent the whitest point where there is no longer detail in the white color. Otherwise you would not want to color correct the white in the whole picture based on an over bright sun reflection off a car bumper. However we may use the white in the whitewall tire. Same with black, find an area that just no longer has detail.

1.) The white and black points may be obvious like a white shirt or piece of paper, a black shirt or deeply shaded area. If not we can find it in at least two ways.

a. Option#1 Open a Levels adjustment layer. Hold the Alt key, then click the rightmost white triangle slider handle under the histogram and slowly move to the left. When colors start to appear they represent the brightest of that color being pure or clipped, this is our white point. When you see an area that you will be able to locate again in the photo release the Alt key. You can toggle the Alt on or off until you are sure you can locate the area. To find the black point hold the Alt key and slide the black or triangle to the left and move to the right. When you start to see black that is your black point, remember it. Close the levels box and make a color marker as described in the next white /black point example (b).

b. Option #2 Open a Threshold adjustment layer at the top of the pallet. Slide the adjustment triangle all the way to the right. Slowly slide to the left until you see white. Click ok, the black and white image will remain until we delete the Threshold layer. Click on your background picture layer and choose the Elliptical Marquee tool. Find the best area of white on your picture. Click in the center then start to drag, now press the Alt and Shift key and the circle will draw from the click point. Keep the circle very small you want to be able to click in the center so you can go to the same point more than once. Now press Ctrl J to put the circle on its own layer. Name the layer Whites. Now stroke the circle with 1 point red color by Edit>Stroke Selection …go with defaults, change color as necessary. We have made a color marker. Click back on your background. To find the black point reopen the threshold box and slide the triangle all the way to the left then move to the right until black appears. Click back on the background and make a color marker as above. Drag the Threshold layer to the trash can we are done with it.

http://img483.imageshack.us/img483/3928/bw17yl.th.jpg (http://img483.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bw17yl.jpg)

We now have three layers one each of small circles representing white and black, and the background layer.

Finding the Gray or mid point.

If there is an obvious gray in your picture make a color marker on its own layer as with the white/black markers (b). Sometimes a shadow on a white building or a color that you know represents an average brightness or neutral color. If you are not sure, below is a way to find the gray point on most photos.

1.) Duplicate your background layer.

2.) On your duplicate layer press Edit>Fill Layer… in the contents box choose 50% gray, normal 100 percent the click OK.

3.) Change the layer blendmode to Difference. Located on the layer pallet option menu in the drop box labeled Normal

4.) Now open a Threshold Adjustment layer at the top of the pallet. Slide the adjustment all the way to the left. Slowly slide to the right until black appears… this is the gray point. Click ok on the threshold layer then click on your background layer and make a color maker as in (b) above ..label the layer mid or gray. You can now drag the threshold, and the duplicate layer to the trash. You should now have three marker layers and the background layer.

http://img483.imageshack.us/img483/9592/graypoint7vj.th.jpg (http://img483.imageshack.us/my.php?image=graypoint7vj.jpg)

Now we are ready to correct. Be sure you have your Info box open … Windows>Info

Click on your background layer and zoom in to the white color marker. Click the eyedropper tool and center it in the color maker circle. Look at the readings in the Info pallet. You will see readings for R-Red…G-green… B-Blue. If you see two rows of numbers the row on the right is the most recent.

When setting the white point we always want to match the HIGHEST reading. Say R=254 G=241 and B=240. We will increase the Green and Blue to equal the red as follows;

1.) On a Levels adjustment layer at the top of the pallet.

2.) In the channel drop box choose green channel

3.) Select or highlight the “ 255” in the Input levels box.

4.) Now center you dropper in the white color marker and watch the info box. Press the down arrow key on the keyboard and watch the green numbers increase. You may need to slightly move or giggle the eyedropper to update the info box. Keep clicking until the green numbers match the highest number… the red in my case, could be a different color in your picture.

5.) Do the same with the blue. When all three numbers are the same or within a point or two you have successfully neutralized the white colors in your photo… on to the gray point next.


Now click OK to close the levels box. Zoom to the gray or mid color marker. Move the eyedropper to the center of the gray color marker. Note the reading. For the gray point add all three values together then divide by three for an average reading. This reading will be the target values for all three channels. In this case R=150…G=172 B=192 for an average of 171.

1.) Open the Levels box again.

2.) Choose the Red channel

3.) Select the 1.0 in the Input Levels box

4.) Click the down or the up arrows as need until the value reaches your average.

5.) Do the same with the other two channels. Often an error here is to not highlight the 1.0 value for each channel. When all three values are at or near your target average you have neutralized the gray or mid point. Now for black.

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/6057/correcting5ci.th.jpg (http://img407.imageshack.us/my.php?image=correcting5ci.jpg)

As above temporarily close the levels box and zoom to the black color marker. Move the eyedropper to the center and note the values. With black point we will match the LOWEST values. In my example Green is the lowest and I will adjust the red and blue to match as follows;

1.) Open the levels box again

2.) Choose the red channel

3.) Select the 0 in the input levels box.

4.) Click the up arrow key until the values matches your lowest value.

5.) Do the same with the other channel until all values are close to the same.

Now the photo white…black…and mid gray points are neutralized. Your colors may be good enough now and all you need to do is adjust the gamma in the RGB channel for brightness, the center gray triangle when the channel is RGB. You may need to increase contrast by slightly moving the white triangle and the black triangle a little closer together.

If the colors still do not look right…. NOW we will fix that by adding or subtracting colors.

Remember this very Important.

To adjust Red..In the Red channel, move the slider to the left to add, to the right to subtract
To adjust Blue..In the Blue channel, move the slider to the left to add, to the right to subtract.
To adjust Green..In the Green channel, move the slider to the left to add, the right to subtract.
To adjust Yellow..In the Blue channel, reduce blue to add yellow, Increase blue to remove yellow
To adjust Magenta..In the Green channel reduce green to add magenta, Increase green to remove magenta
To adjust Cyan..In the Red channel reduce red to add cyan, Increase red to remove cyan

Adjust one color at a time adding and subtracting as needed. When done with the colors adjust brightness and contrast as needed.

Drag the color marker layers to the trashcan to remove the color circles from your photo.

This tutorial does not take into consideration photos with multiple color problems but you can use these methods in conjunction with gradients and brushes in the layer masks.

Butch

kayser
March 5th, 2006, 10:55 PM
Wow. I haven't had a chance to digest it all. I am definitely going to save this off and refer to it. Thanks for taking the time to do this, Butch, I'm sure it will help a lot of us!

Daviskw
March 5th, 2006, 11:04 PM
:) Maybe not.. it is just my way... so many were asking about levels so I thought I'd post what I do... I'm sure there are better ways

Butch

kayser
March 5th, 2006, 11:06 PM
Butch- you have to be one of the most modest people! If you came up with a cure for a disease, you'd say something like, "Well, this is just the way I'd do it, but I'm sure someone else could do it better." :)

Ellen
March 6th, 2006, 01:17 AM
Another thanks to you Butch. How very generous of you to take the time to explain so well what is a hard thing to grasp.(for me anyway)
Thanks

Wendy
March 6th, 2006, 05:04 AM
Butch ...

That is a great set of instructions and I have already learned a lot from them. Thanks so much for taking the time to do this ... I am sure that it is going helps a lot of people, me included :)

Wendy

Brio
March 6th, 2006, 11:39 AM
This a link to an article which explains the use of curves and a numeric approach to tonal adjustment. It is for photoshop, but it still makes an interesting read as do the other articles on the home site

http://www.naturephotographers.net/mh0702-1.html

GaryK
March 6th, 2006, 05:02 PM
Butch

Thanks.. I 'll have to reread a few times. :D

A tip... (Red Cars BY GM) from a colour course I took. I'm sure there are other sayings but this one stuck.

Red Cyan
Blue Yellow
Green Magenta

Adding one subtracts the one beside it.

rmartin
March 6th, 2006, 09:15 PM
This is amazing. You truley display the human spirit at it's best.

Carbone
March 6th, 2006, 09:31 PM
Gary !! This one is very helpful !!!

(though I drive a Honda.. haha!)

Ray

TonyW
March 7th, 2006, 06:59 AM
Gary: I like that - always have problems remembering the colour wheel but that makes it easier.

Butch: One of the problems I run into is that my perception of colour and reality can be quite different. Example would be snow under a blue sky. I take the picture and I then try and correct the snow to make it look white because blue snow looks wrong. In reality the camera didn't lie, snow under a blue sky really is blue. I've taken pictures, colour corrected them to "look right" and taken prints ot the corrected and uncorrected back to the scene and compared them with reality. Last time I did this (yellow church, white roof under blue sky that I was doing for the person who had just spent several months painting it so I wanted to get it right) my corrected one was worse than the uncorrected one.

I guess what I'm saying is that your Step 1 is the toughest one. I see what I think is a colour problems when there really isn't a colour problem.

Tony

Daviskw
March 7th, 2006, 10:59 AM
colour and reality can be quite different.

Tony

I do understand some people like to live in reality …..not me. I love white snow under a blue sky ..:p But when I want to change the blue snow to white I'd rather it not end up red...lol

No one seems to see alike that’s for sure. I read an article on people who when they see certain colors they smell fragrances, or when they smell apples the world turns pink. My kind of people.

Butch

Brio
March 7th, 2006, 05:29 PM
A point of clarification please:
Near the end of the tut, Butch mention tofix colours by adding or subtracting colours.
How does one do that? I am assuming he would be using something like the channel mixer but I am not sure.

Cheers

Daviskw
March 7th, 2006, 07:00 PM
Hi there

By removing colorcasts in the neutral colors of the picture you have a base where you can add a color and get uniform results. Otherwise you will be just increasing or subtracting that color from the picture, not producing another color combination because of an existing cast. It is not perfect of course, but it is more consistent.

The color would be added or subtracted with the levels channel controls and the gamma slider. Rather than channel mixer, it would be more like color balance in Grants tools... It is the same thing but with a little different interface, for people who do not have add-ons like Grants tools.

Butch

GaryK
March 7th, 2006, 09:27 PM
Ray

Red Civic for you then :D :D

Carbone
March 7th, 2006, 09:33 PM
LOL !!!! :)

Ray