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ollewickbom
July 13th, 2009, 01:09 PM
Since Ph 7 doesnīt work with MacOS 10.5.8 Iīve downloaded a trial version of Ph E 6. It seems to be a great program but the prints get unacceptably:mad: dark. I use an Epson printer RX700 and original Epson ink. Iīve tried most settings: Color handling: Photoshop, printer and no color management. Printer profile: various settings. Rendering intent: Relative colorometric, Absolute c, perceptual and saturation. Iīve tried various settings on my printer, for example The profile says Color match and thatīs the only option. But the prints look the same: too dark.

When I use Graphic Converter or Gimp the prints get considerably lighter.

If the prints look like this thereīs no point in buying Photoshop Elements. Can anybody help?

ljameso1
July 13th, 2009, 06:54 PM
I suspect you (like me) keep your monitor brighter for ease of viewing. That makes the image seem brighter than it really is. I've learned to select lighten in the print dialogue or else brighten the image before printing. I'm getting pretty good at compensating and often nail it on the test print now.

Jack Bush
July 13th, 2009, 08:31 PM
I suspect you (like me) keep your monitor brighter for ease of viewing. That makes the image seem brighter than it really is. I've learned to select lighten in the print dialogue or else brighten the image before printing. I'm getting pretty good at compensating and often nail it on the test print now.

Where do you see "lighten" in the print dialogue? Are you printing from the Editor in this case because I'm not finding that option.

ollewickbom
July 14th, 2009, 05:02 PM
I suspect you (like me) keep your monitor brighter for ease of viewing. That makes the image seem brighter than it really is. I've learned to select lighten in the print dialogue or else brighten the image before printing. I'm getting pretty good at compensating and often nail it on the test print now.

and I do it in a photo program but to brighten a photo often gives a veil over the photo and I think it ruins the result in a way. There must be another way, donīt you think? The prints never got dark in Photoshop 7. Iīm frustrated (and more if I were allowed to use that word) that Ph 7 doesnīt work in MacOS 10.5.7.

Wendy
July 14th, 2009, 05:07 PM
Hi ...

If the prints are fine in Photoshop 7 and not in PSE7 then there must be something different in the settings ... it could be that you are managing the colour printing in a different manner ..

Wendy

ljameso1
July 14th, 2009, 07:27 PM
The brighten is under color options which is hidden under the copies and pages drop down in the print dialogue. It's probably a little different for each printer brand. I just read an article in Shutterbug in which the author did extensive trouble shooting/testing and concluded this occurs because LCD monitors are innately brighter than crts. There are monitors and programs(expensive) that tone down the brightness so that what you see is what you get. If I were printing large quantities for sale would probably be worth it, but am used to the test print route from chemical darkroom days.

cats4jan
July 14th, 2009, 10:25 PM
Now that I've learned how to properly set my printer preferences and use paper profiles, I'm getting very good results, but I generally brighten my scrapbook pages prior to printing - especially if they have alot of dark colors in it.

I don't print alot of photos, but I'm guessing I'd have to lighten them, too.

I use brightness/contrast and choose between 4 and 8 and set both brightness and contrast to the same number. I have not calibrated my monitor, because this technique nets me excellent results.

Heatherlou
July 15th, 2009, 09:16 AM
I use Quick Gamma to help with the brightness issues. It's not real flashy, and you have to do some reading to figure it out. It works pretty well, and best of all, it's free!

Quick Gamma (http://www.quickgamma.de/version3en.html)

Tom K
July 15th, 2009, 02:50 PM
Hi Ollie;

You might want to try a non-destructive lighten.
Go to your layers panel and do a duplicate of the top image (ctrl J), then
in the blend modes panel drop-down select 'screen' the image may be too
bright , if it is lower the opacity to suit. The eyeball can be turned on and off to see the image unmodified....
Tom :)

Wendy
July 15th, 2009, 03:35 PM
Thats the way i do it too :)

Wendy

ollewickbom
July 15th, 2009, 04:44 PM
Hi Ollie;

You might want to try a non-destructive lighten.
Go to your layers panel and do a duplicate of the top image (ctrl J), then
in the blend modes panel drop-down select 'screen' the image may be too
bright , if it is lower the opacity to suit. The eyeball can be turned on and off to see the image unmodified....
Tom :)

Thank you Tom. You made my day. I did as you told me and added "selection of the part of the photo that was too dark", so the brighten up was adapted only to the selection. The result was good. In the future Iīll have to scrutinize every photo to be printed and if needed adjust it "Tomīs way". Thanks!
Olle

rrsell
July 21st, 2009, 06:22 PM
I've just worked through this issue with my own workflow and concluded--contrary to most of what I read--that it was best to let the printer--not Elements or Photoshop--handle color management. For the final print, I use the printer setting to lighten +3 (and a few other adjustments too). These settings get saved in a printer profile. I've had pretty good luck using the same profile with both glossy and matte paper (I do change the printer paper setting accordingly).
Along with a lot of others, I have concluded that it is impossible for "serious amateurs" to get a perfect match between the monitor and the print. Just strive for good enough and reasonable consistency. Or get ready to spend lots of money on equipment and calibrations.

Jack Bush
July 25th, 2009, 07:24 AM
Exactly the conclusion I've come to in the past couple of weeks, ITsell. There is no one formula for getting it right every time. Yesterday I found myself boosting saturation and brightness a fair whack. So, it's print to print, and hope. Not very sophisticated but that's the way it is.

athegn
July 25th, 2009, 01:23 PM
I'm not a serious amateur but do get serious matching between my screen and prints. After much faffing and many wasted prints I decided to buy a screen calibrator and stick to the ink and papers for my printer. Using the inks and papers made for my printer means that I have the correct printer profiles.I then let PSE manage the printing.

A Huey calibrator is not that dear and I would rather have each print work first time rather than waste two or three or more sheets; I bet in the end my method is cheaper and certainly less frustrating.

Jack Bush
July 26th, 2009, 07:52 AM
I calibrate with the Spyder 2 Express but still have to adjust to get closer to what the monitor shows.

Wendy
July 26th, 2009, 08:03 AM
I found that the best way was to experiment using all sorts of different things and then you find one that works ... stick to it. :)

I too don't think that there is one solution for everyone ...

Wendy

Codebreaker
July 26th, 2009, 08:45 AM
One of the important factors to realise about a screen calibrator like a Huey, Eye-one or Spyder is that these only ensure that you get a correctly rendered image on the screen. They do not guarantee that your prints will match your screen as there is no direct effect of the screen profile on the print.

Failure to setup your screen correctly can mean that you may be editing out screen problems - such as it being too bright or dark or having a red cast. These then manifest themselves as other problems in the print. It becomes too dark, too bright or lacking in red.

Printing is a seperate process from the one that is used to display your image on a screen.

For printing a Print Profile that matches your Printer, ink and paper is essential. You should allow Photoshop to manage the colours and you must disable any colour management in the Printer Driver. Use a Rendering Intent of Relative Colourimetric.

In addition the source image must also contain an accurate colour profile.

Now, when all this is done you have to realise some other important factors. Screens and prints may never match 100%.

1. The way in which you see the images on screen and on paper are very different.

Screens transmit light and prints are viewed by reflected light. It is this second factor that can cause a lot of differences. Your screen may be set for a White Temperature of 65K which is common. However, unless you view your prints the same colour temperature light - which is not common - then differences may occur.

2. Despite claims by the printer manufacturers - the colour range can be much more limiting than your screen. This is turn can cause some differences.

Colin