Calling small animal/bird photographers!

[annc]

Some of you get such superb close-up shots of your pets!
Now I have (still boxed) a hybrid camera which allows manual control, please could some of you tell me the best exposures and apertures to get a good picture? I presume the exposure needs to be quite short. Mind you, I think another prerquisite which might be harder to fulfil is 'co-operative ratties!'

I suspect that much of the weekend will be taken up with reading manuals on the camera and on an MP4 player. I don't even know how to copy tracks from a CD on to my computer - I gather in is done in Windows Media Player?

All this with great thanks to my late cousin who made a little expenditure possible! I didn't go for a DSLR because of weight, size when packing and slightly shaky hands which could make changing lenses difficult.

All advice welcome!

[vawitt]

Hi, Ann. I've just started bird photography....I have a pro-sumer P&S (probably similar to the Canon you just purchased) that has a preset setting I can choose called Quick Shutter. It also shoots in burst mode (but reduced to 3MP from 10). I've had some pretty good luck in my few days of owning it. It has a manual focus but I haven't yet figured it out - I think it's a 2-handed process.

As for the MP3 player - you'll love being able to have so much music so close at hand in such a small package! If you have Windows Media Player, you can pop your CD into the computer and from the WMP menu, choose "Rip". Ripping copies the CDs to your computer. Use the settings in WMP to choose if you want MP3 or WMA format. WMA gives a smaller file size but not all MP3 players will read that format. Then you have to learn how to move the songs from computer to player - how depends on the player. Some players allow you to skip the computer step and just rip directly to your player. It's an easy process and a few minutes with your MP3 manual will get you started!

~Val

Have fun learning how to use your new toys!

[annc]

I ended up buying an Olympus SP-570UZ - the specification looks great for what I need.

Next step - Elements 6

[lexcell]

Ann,
There is no one exposure for getting great animal shots. It depends on the lens you have, whether you want the subject and background in focus or just your subject, the amount of light, your film speed, etc.
The members on this forum had a great book club going using Bryan Peterson's book Understanding Exposure which would be a great starting place.
Secondly, I would experiment when shooting with different apertures and shutter speeds to see which combination works best for you. Unfortunately film is expensive and you won't get the instant feedback of digital but, hey, we got along before digital and still learned how to take great photographs. You will want to keep a notebook or micro-recorder handy to record your exposure data so that when you look at your images you can refer back to the info to see what works and what doesn't.

[des_enzano]

Hi Ann,
I have found that photographing pets especially smaller animals, requires a fast shutter speed (or flash), good lighting and cooperative pets. I only use the flash if I am fairly close to the subject and tend to reduce the flash output as there is a danger of washing out the subject. If an animal is running around you will have more success if you photograph it when it is running towards you. (Less chance of a blurred shot)
The following is a link to a couple of photographs of mine. You can see that the dogs are heading in my direction and the lighting is good. Actually, I focused on the point where I took the photograph before calling them to jump the stile.
The photograph of the ferrets was taken with flash.
http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p228/des_enzano/Pets/
I forgot to mention the other essential - loads of patience.
Good luck,
George

[Not4wood]

I have also just started shooting birds, and I've had a hard time trying to get a good angle with the Birds at least looking somewhat my way.

Focusing is the biggest issue, and just trying to remember to keep my aperture at a good or at least a somewhat DOF. Which broken down means having a good faster ISO set so that when fast movement from both the bird and me can be captures without any blur. So when stalking your prey keep checking your exposure equation and make sure that you have a good DOF by making the aperture somewhere in the middle of the range of your lens.

A very bad attempt at a shot of a Dove. Out of Focus, movement of the Bird. I dont think it was me, I did have my VR on in my new lens.

http://www.elementsvillage.com/gallery/files/1/5/3/1/4/dsc_1168_dove_thumb.jpg (http://www.elementsvillage.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=5244&c=2)

This is a new try at a Robin, from this past weekend. Still not a great shot, but I'm getting there.


http://www.elementsvillage.com/gallery/files/1/5/3/1/4/dsc_1169_robin_thumb.jpg (http://www.elementsvillage.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=5243&c=2)

[lowbone]

When you are shooting wildlife you generally want the fastest shutter speed that your camera will provide. Birds twitch around allot and wildlife in general is unpredictable as far as movement goes. Most of us who shoot wildlife use the AV ( aperture value ) setting and set the aperture to the largest opening. By doing this you are guaranteeing that your camera will pick its fastest shutter speed. Keep in mind though that if the lighting is low that speed might not be adequate. I don't know what you are using but allot of cameras display the settings in the viewfinder. Using AV at its largest opening also helps to blur a distracting background on a DSLR. On a camera with a small sensor it will not be very effective doing that.

[Not4wood]

August 18, 2008

Update:

After returning from our great adventure from the UK, I not only was able to spot a couple of birds but also got a chance to shoot two birds that I never saw before.

Also, yesterday Sunday I had gone to Sagamore Hill (http://www.nps.gov/sahi/) to finally make it to there Sunday 9:30 AM Nature Trail walk.

Shooting birds in flight is a very difficult thing and made me absolutely nuts. I found that my new long 70-300VR lens is not long enough but what can you do. LOL

Here is one shot of the Muscovy Duck (thanks to Janet for giving me this guys name).

Muscovy Duck
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v497/TIA2077/Birds%20and%20Small%20Animals/MuscovyDuck.jpg

Great Herron
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v497/TIA2077/Birds%20and%20Small%20Animals/DSC_2896_GreatHeron1.jpg

Jackdaw
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v497/TIA2077/Birds%20and%20Small%20Animals/DSC_1825_Jackdawframed.jpg

Osprey 2
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v497/TIA2077/Birds%20and%20Small%20Animals/DSC_2881_Osprey2.jpg

[lexcell]

Photographing birds in flight is a challenge but a very rewarding one when you do nail the shot. To begin with, I agree that you want a fairly fast shutter speed so that you can capture a sharp image. But, then, as you improve your skills, try shooing at a slower shutter speed and panning with your subject. You want to get the birds eye sharp but the wings, etc can be blurred. It gives a very nice sense of motion in a still image. It's even harder to capture a good image trying the blur pan technique but it is very cool when you do get it.
I use aperture priority and set my aperture to a fairly wide opening to get a fast shutter speed. If I can't get the speed I need, then I'll bump the ISO a bit to get there.
A tip for photographing birds in flight is to begin focusing and panning before the bird is in range. This gives you time to get in focus. When the bird is in the shooting zone begin firing and once the bird is flying away release the shutter but continue panning to ensure that you do not unduly shake the camera. So, you begin the pan, start firing, stop firing and finish the panning movement. If you give yourself the extra panning on either end you will find that you are able to capture sharper images during the shooting time.

[Not4wood]

Thanks Laurie..

I have a question on what you were saying about panning. Right now I'm working on trying to get to know my Auto Focus Locking mechanism on my D80. I have the AE/AF button now set for Focus Lock. On the back of my camera I have a slide Lock for the Focus as well. Do I have this on the small white Dot for Lock or do I have it down by the capital "L" for Lock? I cant figure this out, and also do I have to use both of these methods when trying to pan a subject?

I finally have gotten around to identifying another couple of birds that I had shot at Windemere while waiting for our boat so we could board.


1 Mottled Duck:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v497/TIA2077/Birds%20and%20Small%20Animals/framed_MottledDuck.jpg

2 Mute Swan:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v497/TIA2077/Birds%20and%20Small%20Animals/framed_Mute_Swan.jpg

3 Black-Headed Gull
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v497/TIA2077/Birds%20and%20Small%20Animals/framed_blackheadedgull.jpg

[lexcell]

Mark, unless the bird is not moving I would not use the focus lock. It locks the focus and when your subject moves, it will be out of focus.
You can use the rear AF/AEL button to be the focus and the shutter to fire if you are having a hard time holding the button part way down.
For moving subjects, I have my camera set to continuous focus, continuous advance, dynamic focus. I begin to get focus before the bird is in range. As they come into range, I begin firing...panning (moving my upper body with the flight of the bird) and once the bird has past I keep panning even after I stop firing to keep my movements smooth and to ensure I get sharp imjages.

[Not4wood]

Mark, unless the bird is not moving I would not use the focus lock. It locks the focus and when your subject moves, it will be out of focus.
You can use the rear AF/AEL button to be the focus and the shutter to fire if you are having a hard time holding the button part way down.


Thank you Laurie. I thought the Focus Lock was to lock on the subject and just not lock it into position. So by setting the menu the AF/AE Lock button is now used to focus on the subject and the shutter is no longer anything other then the shutter button? I never heard this before for any of these two. I do remember that AF-C is for continuous focusing (moving subjects) and I think I'll just stick to this method. Instead of playing with things that will make my adventure regretable..

Laurie, thank you from the bottom of my heart for this info. You saved me from a major blunder. Sept 7, Sunday I am catching up to an Orinithological group that is going out to spot birds in a local park that I had pretty much spent my childhood in roaming around and climbing anything that will support my weight.... This will be my second roaming with a guide and looking forward to enlarging my expertise and number of birds spotted.

[lexcell]

Mark,
I'm glad I was able to help. I don't use the AF/AEL button for focus myself but I know several people who have their cameras set up this way. I find I'm too uncoordinated to do both. :)
However, AF-C, Continuous advance and dynamic AF will certainly do all it can to help you capture the image in sharp focus.
Good luck.

[Not4wood]

Laurie wrote:
On using the AF/AE L button, I know several people who have their cameras set up this way. I find I'm too uncoordinated to do both.
__

I tried to use this button to see what your talking about, and boy you are right on the money with this one. This is extremely an awkward way of doing things, what were they thinking??


Laurie wrote:
AF-C, Continuous advance and dynamic AF will certainly do all it can to help you capture the image in sharp focus.

I know AF-C is keeping the subject in focus but I also thought that another setting had to be made to change the cameras thoughts and keep ready for an active situation like Sports or something? Thats why I was looking at a Focus Lock to lock the camera on my subject while it moves around. Also, are you saying you set your camera to multiple exposures so the longer you hold down your shutter button you continue to take pictures or are you just putting a Title on the AF-C which is a Continous moving Auto Focus?

Sorry one last question: I am still confused about this up/down slider switch on the back of my D80. I think this is supposed to be a Focus Lock on the AF mode to keep it focused on the subject. I have tested it, and I cant see in which position the L or the white dot makes any changes. Should this slider be in the L position or the white dot position while I am shooting in manual? Or is this a lock switch for when I am shooting in "Sports Mode"?

You are a wonderful resource of information, and I want to thank you from the bottom of my heart. I ran into a web page the other day and it had Moose and you on it. I cant remember what the article was about or if it was for one of your classes. But the included comment made one feel that the group that was present is a major force to be tapped into for a wealth of information if you take there classes.

[lexcell]

Mark,
My bad...there are two buttons. The AF-L/AE-L do lock the focus. It's the AF-ON button that focuses while you are tracking your subject. Still awkward but I wanted to clarify the buttons.

I set my camera to continuous advance and continuous focus. That way the camera keeps focusing and shooting as long as I hold the shutter button down. I can capture peak of action and/or a sequence of shots.

The up down switch is to tune the multi selector on or off. If it is off, you can't change anything with the multi selector...if it is on the dot, you can make changes using the multi selector.

It's my pleasure to anwer questions and help when I can.
Good luck with your shoot.

[Not4wood]

Thanks again. I had just come home from the printer and dropped off a CD with about 40 or so images from our trip. I had just glanced at my D80 Digital Field Guide to look up that slider on the back.

This slider is pretty cool, it locks the focus area of illumination in the view finder. If I pick a spot off center and I want to keep it there, this slider will lock it in place for me. UP is Locked and Down is variable.

As far as the AE/AF button, from the sound of it I wont be using it.

I just altered my camera again to bring it where I need it be. I just tried it on Continous Shooting and I had a normal speed 4 gig mem card inside it. This thing is fast and I know its not the top speed card I do have.

My new question is about the bracketing (considering I almost always shoot in manual mode at this point anyway). I just tried it for the first time BTW and it varied the shutter speed on the exposures. I have to look around some more, can this bracketing control also change the aperture for me or am I limited to shutter speed? I can see the speed offerings if I'm shooting a moving target and its auto-bracketing feature might come in handy but I really doubt the control will be able to do what I want and when. Slightly confusing considering I always take full control and I am not really sure I want to give it up in these fast changing situations.

Your opinion on the Auto-Bracketing feature? Under what conditions would you consider it useable and/or is it just for people who are not confidant in manually taking control of the camera?

[Not4wood]

Well, now I am unsure of whats going on this weekend. It started raining kinda hard a drop before midnight and its now after 1:02 am and if this keeps up and the storm Hannah does hit us I doubt I will be able to go out and shoot the birds at least. The storm damage probably........

The famous Weather Bureau who gets major money for being wrong more then about half the time is calling for this storm to go north a drop east of us. We are on Long Island on the Northern Eastern Edge of Queens, just a stones thro from the Nassau County border. I should get there money and have the ability to be wrong so many times.

Anyway, they are calling for heavy rains and sustaind winds up to 40-50 with gusts over 60. For us who normally get around 45 max this storm is a major one and I dont care what you guys see on the news. The last time we had a major storm pass by and actually hit this way more then 300 people died and the whole of Long Island was under water. Our limit above sea level is not far enough and trust me, with high tides we are not looking pretty at all. We dont have levies and other things like Orleans. We have bags of sand and thats just about it. I do expect us to probably get either completely clear and miss us or evacuated. The advantage we have is that there are very high office buildings and a mountain range not far away and this usually stops any high winds from going to far. No major twisters if anything does get close the mountains usually make these storms die off real fast. The last major storm that came close but did die was Hurricane Gloria and it was about '85 or '86 and I was on a fishing boat trying to get out to open waters. Never made it but I can at least say it was my first attempt to be on the water in a major storm.

[Not4wood]

7:11 am on Sunday. Looks good, the sun is out and I have my bug spray, mem cards so lets see what happens........ I'm off for my next small mini adventure of Official Bird Watching...