help

[sydneysnana]

Ok..... I'm going just a little crazy. I have the manuel that came with my new Canon Rebel XLi, I have the magic lantern guide, and the Idot's guide from the Library. I finally purchased Understanding Exposure, and I think I just need someone to look at my pictures and tell me what I do wrong or what settings to change. I seem to learn learn better that way as the years have gone by...:confused:. So all that being said where is the best place to go for that on the web? This is the only forum I always use. Can I do that here or is there a better place? How do you include the shooting info on posts?

Thanks!!!!
Michelle

[mrod]

Hi Michelle-

Well, it sounds like you're well stocked, and ready for some action! Have fun with the new camera!

I think here is a good place to start. If you post an image and specifically ask for input, advice in a certain area, etc. there are a lot of really fine photographers who would be happy to help, I'd bet. I don't know how much time Laurie Excell has to critique, but she may chime in as well.

As for including the EXIF data (shooting info), I'm sure you can find the info on each image in your camera (I'm not a Canon shooter, so I can't give you exact directions) or, if you load the image into Elements and go to File>File Info and click on the Camera Data categories, they will tell you, among other things, the f-stop, shutter speed, ISO setting, and focal length.

Enjoy! You'll get the hang of things soon!

Mike

[Hankw]

http://www.pixentral.com/

Hi Michelle:

A lot of us here use the above for posting photo's for others to view. You will get lots of help from the members, so be ready for a education. Pixentral will have the instructions on how to upload to them. after uploading, go to the bottom of you image and in the Box that say's "Forum" copy that address and paste it back here in your post. Be sure to get all of that address. It is quite long. Hope that helps and looking forward to seeing your images

[lexcell]

Hi Michelle,
You can share your images right here and the group will chime in with suggestions and helpful tips. This is a great group and you will learn alot from everyone.
Click on the How to Use the Forums button on the top right of the page and it will take you through the steps for setting up a gallery or posting images to the forum.

[sydneysnana]

Ok, here is my first help picture. "EXIF data", that's the term I could'nt remember last night. I thought you needed that info to be able to point out my problems???....

I take alot of pictures of my grand-daughters indoors. That's my main poblem area right now. Last night in reading I did discover if I turn the ISO up that helps alot.

http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/1cLNBySn5GlGrqTjC6PgmbFYOSoOf_thumb.jpg (http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=1cLNBySn5GlGrqTjC6PgmbFYOSoOf)

I used Auto, Shutter speed 1/60, AV 5.0, Evaluative Metering, ISO 400, EF18-55 mm lens, Focal Length 42.0, flash on.

Seems like more often when I take the indoor the histogram is more towards underexposed.

Here's another one
http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/1JnzFsbiG4EF3wFajepkgS03fNv3o1_thumb.jpg (http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=1JnzFsbiG4EF3wFajepkgS03fNv3o1)

Thanks!! I'm sure you alll will point me where to start with this.

Michelle

[ljameso1]

Take the white balance off auto and set it to flash.

[Paul-S]

Okay first i have to ask is why can I only see thumbnails from pixmania and cannot access the larger image?

In the second image the problem is that pop up flash works on ttl (through the lens metering) so the metering works off the light bouncing back of the subject and being metered by the camera. The problem here is the metering has decided that the person in the foreground nearest the camera is the main subject and so has quenched the flash light when she was exposed correctly leaving the subjects further away under exposed due to light fall off (known as the inverse law), you do not have this problem with sunlight because it is a continous light source and everything is lit evenly from near to infinity unlike with direct flash as the main light source.

Things to do next time in this situation when using direct flash as the main light source..

1-set the metering to partial metering and lock the exposure on the people further away and be prepared for the person nearest to be overexposed.

2- make sure every one is on the same plane, as for every 3 foot away everyone is from the main subject they will be underexposed by nearly two stops.

3- and the best way is to get a swivil and tilt external flash gun and bounce the light of the ceiling.:)

[sydneysnana]

:pThank you!!!!!!!:):) That helps so much. I can learn so much with this information!
Michelle

[lexcell]

Paul gave some excellent advice here...
I second the suggestion to purchase an external flash and bounce it. You can also get an off camera shoe cord and take the flash off camera entirely, which gives you even more control over where the light falls.

[LiaL]

Like Paul above, I cannot access larger image when I click on it. What am I doing wrong?

[RobertSchuldenfrei]

Ok, here is my first help picture. "EXIF data", that's the term I could'nt remember last night. I thought you needed that info to be able to point out my problems???....

I take alot of pictures of my grand-daughters indoors. That's my main poblem area right now. Last night in reading I did discover if I turn the ISO up that helps alot.



I used Auto, Shutter speed 1/60, AV 5.0, Evaluative Metering, ISO 400, EF18-55 mm lens, Focal Length 42.0, flash on.

Seems like more often when I take the indoor the histogram is more towards underexposed.

Here's another one


Thanks!! I'm sure you alll will point me where to start with this.

Michelle
Hi Michelle,

Let me go off in another direction. I find most of my indoor pictures are improved by turning off the flash and using the available light in the room. In what can only be described as "contrarian" I use my built in flash and my old strobe outdoors for fill flash.

My reasons for not using flash indoors are:

1/ It is very "flat" light.

2/ The subjects hate it.

3/ It can cause "red-eye."

If it is daytime, I often position my subjects near a window. I will often drag a table lamp or two on the side of the subjects that are away from the window. I have a large piece of foam-core that I can use as a reflector.

If there is no daylight, I would use room light first. If you can afford it, buy studio lights. I prefer light bulbs to strobes as you can see what you are getting before you take the shot. In addition, subjects see to hate flash as mentioned above.

Good luck,

Bob

[BOBGRUETTER]

I agree with Bob. In the four years I have had my camera I can count on one hand the number of times I have used my built in flash. It causes flat lighting and it also drops off too fast. Open the aperature (sp) and slow down the shutter. You'll find the exposure a lot better. Or switch to aperature priority and let the camera do its work.

Gotta go and check the roast on the grill.

Bob

[H2O Junkie]

I would respectfully have to disagree. You CAN use a flash indoors, outdoors, anytime your little heart desires. BUT, there are some things you need to know.

First you need to evaluate fill flash. Fill flash can be used at any time and at almost any camera setting.

Second, evaluate a softbox. A softbox will diffuse the flash. If you are using a flash with a softbox you will have to offset your flash settings. TTL will not work due to the drop in light traveling to the subject. By using a softbox in combination with a bracket you will eliminate red-eye while creating an over-all pleasing image.

And last but not least, experiment with your flash. Don't fear it. It is a tool that should be used. Light brings out the color in your subjects (hint, hint). Here is an image of a monarch butterfly that was shot using a flash off the camera with a soft box. Think about it!

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/fastsk8r/Macros/monarch640.jpg

[BOBGRUETTER]

Mr. H, My point exactly. Off camera offers a third dimension and greater possibilities. The on camera flip flash is extremely limited as to what can be done with it. The photos appeared to have been taken using the on camera flash and not a removable type.

Bob

[H2O Junkie]

Most on-camera flashes are useless unless one properly uses them. They can be improved if need be with a flip flash soft box. But that reduces their usable distance. But if you use manual mode and adjust your stops (I usually stop down 5 with my softbox in place) it will REALLY improve the quality of the light.

BUT, that said, if you REALLY want to take quality portrait-type photos, eliminate the constraints. Go to an external flash if it is an option and learn how to use it effectively. It would be a good idea if possible to get a flash with slave capability so you can remove it from the camera and open up a new world. Keep in mind you don't have to spend hundreds of dollars for a flash if you don't mind learning to use the charts and manual mode. But if you don't want to learn that, you will have to spring for a TTL. The bad side to that is that it may not have slave capability available. That means it may be stuck to the camera.

A lot hinges on what you want to do with the camera. If you are looking for quality flash photos, it will require a few tools and some practice. If you really don't care that much because it is strictly self-gratification, just get a soft box for your flip flash and test it out.